A fortnight in the Highlands

Glens, munros, lochs and fresh, Highland air: the Scottish Highlands and Islands are a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Byway travellers Hannah and Ben share their itinerary for a two-week-long jaunt to the wild Highlands and the Isle of Skye. 

Day 1: London to Glasgow on the Caledonian Sleeper

Our Highlands and Islands adventure began as we boarded the Caledonian sleeper train from London to Glasgow. This was the first time either of us had travelled by sleeper train, and we couldn’t wait for the journey ahead. Had we boarded and settled down to sleep immediately, we may have had a better chance of a better night’s sleep. Instead, we marvelled over every tiny thing–our biggest amusement being the size of the cabin itself. It was so small that we couldn’t fit inside with our backpacks on (the comedy value of this was not the same when we were both trying to get ready at 6 am the following morning). 

Despite the comfy beds and the cosy room, it was hard to fall  asleep with the movement and sound of the tracks. I eventually drifted off, armed with the complimentary earplugs, eye mask and a pillow over my head! Despite this, I did enjoy the experience and would do it again. It was a unique and fun way to travel, and losing a few hours of sleep was worth it. 

BEN CRIDGE

Days 2 and 3: Reaching Fort William

Ahead of our arrival into Glasgow, we got the Caledonian sleeper wake-up call (and a peppermint tea each), before spilling out of the sleeper train into Glasgow Central Station. Dodging the morning commuters, we set off on our short walk over to Glasgow Queen Street against the backdrop of the pastel pink sky, enjoying our brief glimpse of the city before sunrise. 

We boarded our train to Fort William and were lucky to have a quiet carriage and a table seat to ourselves. The views were not to be missed; every inch of the scenery was breathtaking. I loved seeing the deer hiding in the gorse, running and revealing themselves at the sounds of the passing train. We attempted to play a card game but realised that neither of us wanted to take our eyes off the views for long enough to take our turns. 

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

When planning our trip, Fort William was one of the places we knew where we wanted to eat. The small high street is home to a select number of restaurant, and I was excited about experiencing the Grog & Gruel and the Geographer. What we didn’t realise was that most places close for the winter. One of the few places open was The Tavern, a local pub serving warm, hearty meals. It was a welcome surprise and quickly made us forget about any other restaurants. A trip highlight for me here was Ben ordering a pint of Irn-Bru with his dinner. 

Having only one full day in Fort William, we wanted to make the most of it. We decided to do the Cow Hill Circuit, which was just under seven miles long, and promised a good glimpse of Ben Nevis. I wasn’t sure what to expect (other than being cold), which meant that every part of the walk was a real surprise. We passed through moorland and miles of gorse before veering off into the forest. This is still one of my favourite parts of the trip. It was so unexpectedly beautiful and felt magical to walk through, the backdrop of Ben Nevis ahead of us. We saw less than ten people over the whole day, giving us the feeling of being alone with the whole of the wilderness to explore.

We ended the walk with coffee and cake at The Wildcat, an all-vegan cafe we visited several times during our short stay in Fort William. The window seats were perfect for people-watching, especially after a long day of walking. 

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

Days 4 to 7: Discovering the Isle of Skye

Our second stop on our trip was the Isle of Skye, which we travelled to by coach. I was so apprehensive about travelling for almost three hours by coach - it was giving me flashbacks to being a student travelling to and from University on affordable coaches. Thankfully, I was pleasantly surprised when the coach arrived. There weren't many people on it, so again, Ben and I were able to spread out. I spent the entire journey staring out the window at the most incredible views of Lochs and mountains, even getting a glimpse of Eilean Donan Castle. 

BEN CRIDGE

We arrived in Skye and fell in love with the little town of Portree the second our feet touched the ground. It was idyllic and picturesque; everyone seemed to know everyone else, and it felt like stepping into a bubble. Within a day, I was picturing my life living there, working in a little shop and walking along the harbour front. If it wasn’t the opposite end of the country from my family, I’d be seriously considering it!

The Sunday we spent in Skye was my favourite day of the entire trip. We woke up to sunshine and clear blue skies and enjoyed our breakfast overlooking the sea in the hotel. Fuelled on coffee and haggis, we headed off on a walk. Ben promised me this would be a gentle and short walk, even showing me the route on a new map book he’d bought. But he failed to spot - or intentionally failed to tell me - how hilly the walk was! It wasn’t as easy as promised, but it was so rewarding. We walked along the sea, along cliff paths, then climbed up into the hills and farmland, finishing the route with a glimpse of a highland cow!

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

We followed up the walk with a well-deserved three-course roast dinner back at the hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon curled up by the fireplace, reading in the hotel living room.

Days 8 - 10: Onward to Inverness

Our third stop was Inverness, via another incredibly scenic train journey: the Kyle line. The views changed from fishing villages to lochs with crystal clear reflections of the mountains behind, to dense forests with towering trees and rugged open moorland before reaching the city of Inverness. 

BEN CRIDGE

Arriving into the hustle and bustle of Inverness after our quiet rural towns, we immediately sought refuge inside Leaky’s Bookshop, finding peace amongst the floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and the thousands of stories crammed within them. The smell of the old books mixed with the log burner in the centre felt so welcoming. I could have spent so many hours here, although I think my bank account was glad for the limited room in my backpack! 

BEN CRIDGE

We were surprised by how much colder it felt in Inverness compared to Skye. We later learned that Skye’s climate is typically warmer, and combined with Storm Éowyn heading into Scotland, it got pretty chilly. So, we did the most sensible thing: headed for dinner and cocktails. We went to a restaurant called Scotch and Rye, which had a huge range of cocktails with vegan options for each one. The food was warm and tasty–I devoured a bowl of mac and cheese (I would honestly go back to Inverness just to eat this again!). 

We spent the first day walking 11 miles along the Caledonian Canal before the weather turned drastically on our second day. Despite an amber weather warning, we still had plenty of things to do. We visited the cathedral and the museum and tried a variety of savoury and sweet snacks in the Victorian market before heading to Playback Bar for some games of shuffleboard.

Live music can be heard almost every night in Inverness, with most pubs hosting at least one act. We enjoyed live traditional Scottish songs in the Highlander, along with the most interesting cover of ‘Dancing in the Dark’ by Bruce Springsteen on the accordion in the Hootenanny. This pub was packed out in all corners, with those lucky enough to be at the front squished into old church pews. 

Days 11 and 12: Exploring Edinburgh

We were worried about making it to Edinburgh, especially given the weather warnings for the area. But with our dedicated Byway support chat to hand–we made it. We had cancelled trains, packed out carriages and one no-show taxi before finally making it to the hotel only one hour later than originally planned. 

BEN CRIDGE

One of the reasons we were so excited to get to Edinburgh was to celebrate Burns Night that evening. We had tickets booked for an ‘Alternative Burns Night’ at the Biscuit Factory, an evening of whisky tasting, vegan haggis, and ceilidh dancing. The thought of learning to dance in a room full of strangers sounded daunting at first, but it was impossible not to join in. We had the best time attempting to learn the steps to various dances, often getting it wrong, which only made us laugh more. The band were great at getting everyone involved, and extremely patient teaching everyone the dances after most had enjoyed one too many whiskys!

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

BEN CRIDGE

For our full day in Edinburgh, we did a whistle-stop tour of the city, knowing from the minute we arrived that a second trip would be essential. We started with an underground tour of Mary Kings Close, learning a brief history of Edinburgh and some of its historic residents. We walked along the Royal Mile, dipping in and out of shops for some final souvenirs. We ended the day by climbing Arthur’s Seat, the perfect way to end our Scotland adventure. 

BEN CRIDGE

Day 13: Leaving Scotland

With almost thirty hours spent on trains and 59 miles walked, our trip showcased Scotland in all its diversity. With the help of Byway, we experienced rural and secluded moorland, beautiful sunlit harbours, the lively music scene of Inverness, and the expansive history of Edinburgh–all in one trip. Every train journey felt like a new adventure, more like an activity for the day, rather than a chore to reach our next destination. We had the best time, and we can’t wait to book our next adventure with Byway soon. 

BEN CRIDGE

Head over to Hannah’s Instagram to view her highlights, or watch their YouTube video here.