Alsace and Strasbourg by train

This is the time of year when the French city and Alsatian capital of Strasbourg is starting to glisten and glow, as Strasbourg boasts one of the largest Christmas markets in Europe. It may be having a lower key Christmas than usual in 2020, but spring and summer will light up this most underrated French region with some much needed post-lockdown sparkle. Let’s raise a glass of its regional Crémant d'Alsace to better times ahead, and for now, sit back and enjoy our guide to the best things to do in Strasbourg and the Alsace region, which you can reach swiftly and delightfully by train from the UK.

Visit Strasbourg by train

Close to the border with Germany, Strasbourg has a delightful fusion of cultures. It’s a delightful journey there too, with the high-speed train from Paris to Strasbourg taking just under 2 hrs, following a route through the Champagne region and ancient forests of Lorraine. The city of Strasbourg has grown up around the banks of the River Rhine and boasts ancient heritage which is now protected by UNESCO, the centre of which is Grande-Île and, in particular, the district of Petite-France. 

Strasbourg is a city of canals flanked by half-timbered buildings, historic artisans’ workshops and weeping waterfront willows. People who come expecting bureaucratic buildings (and there are quite a few of these too, many very impressive) are always charmed by the alternative and unexpected chocolate box-ness of it all. Start your journey back into Strasbourg’s history at the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, a Gothic structure with views across to the Vosges Mountains and even the Black Forest in Germany.

Walking trails in Alsace

Strasbourg is perfectly located at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, protected by Ballons des Vosges Regional Nature Park status, one of the largest nature parks in France. This means that on the doorstep of one of Europe’s most magnificent cities lies 3,000 km² of forest, mountains and lakes. Explore it by taking a local train up the Bruche Valley and into the Moselle Valley, bookable locally. It is famously on the GR 5 long-distance walking trail, which you can find out more about in this Cicerone walking guide.

It’s easy to combine a holiday in Strasbourg with a hiking trip to the Black Forest National Park, or Schwarzwald, as it is only 60km away by car and you can hire one directly from Strasbourg train station. The Black Forest is also a top spot for cycling and cross-country skiing. For other regional walking routes see Visit Alsace.

Visit Colmar by train

Colmar is like a smaller version of the historic centre of Strasbourg but a lot quieter. Just 30 mins by train from Strasbourg, this medieval city has waterside walks and winstube (winebars), traditional brasseries and boutiques, as well as mellow boat trips under flower-bedecked bridges. Colmar also celebrates its contemporary culture: the Unterlinden Museum, for example, is an exquisite restoration of a former convent and public baths that boasts an impressive collection showcasing Monet, Picasso and Debuffet to name but a few. 

Colmar is also the birthplace of sculptor Auguste Bartholdi whose most famous oeuvre is the Statue of Liberty. Not surprisingly there is a museum in his honour, as well as a 12m relica of the great lady. Another beautiful feature of Colmar is its patisseries, with Pâtisserie Mulhaupt one of the most iconic. Colmar is a place to concede to the calories.

Tour the Alsace Wine Trail

With an eclectic mix of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer grapes soaking up the sunshine of Alsace’s hills, you can also benefit from its natural heritage the slow way, by bike. The Alsace Vineyard Cycle Route covers 131.5km of traditional villages and gentle valleys, taking you far from main roads along former railway lines, farmers’ trails and into a landscape that feels almost timeless. You can take it in different stages over a week, with one of the most popular between Strasbourg and Colmar, which takes three days at a leisurely pace. Both cities are easily accessed by train, have bike rental facilities and the trail between the two has you pedalling through magical spots such as Obernai, Mittelbergheim, Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr.

Taste the Alsace

As well as the wine, and a fair smattering of beer of course, traditional slow food is everywhere to be found in Alsace. If you are hiking in the Munster Valley, you will be sure to tuck into its famous cheese which is produced by the region’s marcaire or dairy farmers. You won’t go hungry hiking here, with meat pies and roïgebrageldi (potatoes and pork mix) on many a menu, followed by siaskas soft cheese and kirsch for dessert.  

The most iconic Alsatian food is the tarte flambée or flammekueche, which is a bit like pizza in that it is baked in a wood-fired oven, has lashings of cheese and bacon, and is served in slices. 

Let Byway plan and book your entire trip to Strasbourg, Colmar and more off the beaten track places in Alsace, making your slow travel holiday seamless from start to end. Just click the button below to get started.